Attaching your feet to the pedals is something that beginners often feel uncomfortable with but it is something to consider to help you get more from your cycling.
Clipping in takes a bit of getting used to but it makes sprints, long distance cycling and getting up hills much more efficient. It can also prevent you getting 'bounced' off the pedals when cycling over rough terrain.
There is a guide to Setting up Clipless Pedals at the bottom of the page.
There are a few main pedal types to choose from - what you choose depends on the type of cycling you do - MTB, road or touring...
Clipless pedals are available with varying amounts of 'float' (usually measured in degrees). This allows your foot to move more naturally while pedalling.
For your first pair, just buy the cheapest pedals suitable for your purpose.
On all clipless pedals, a cleat is screwed to the sole of the shoe. This "clicks" into the pedal.
Step in with your toes and press down with your heel to clip in. Just twist your foot outwards to release.
There are basically 2 types of cleat :
Road cleats usually use a 3 bolt fixing with a triangular hole pattern.
Cleats for MTB & Touring use a 2 bolt fixing - 2 holes side by side.
Cleats are usually supplied when you buy a new pair of pedals.
MTB cleats are smaller and less obtrusive than road cleats so you can walk (or run!) to push the bike.
Only buy road pedals if you don't intend to walk anywhere as the cleats are much larger. This provides better power transfer to the pedals but more 'off balance ballerina' moments in the queue at the cafe!
SPD (Shimano Pedalling Dynamics) compatible pedals
Shimano's SPD pedals and SPD compatible pedals from other manufacturers are the most commonly and easily available for both MTB & road cycling.
SPD pedals can be used with any cycling shoes from any manufacturer.
SPD MTB cleats (also suitable for touring) sit flush with the sole of the shoe so do not hinder walking.
The SPD Road cleats protrude from the sole and can make walking difficult.
The SPD MTB cleats are fastened using 2 bolts side by side and the SPD Road cleat with 3 bolts in a triangle pattern.
SPD MTB compatible shoes are available in casual/trainer styles which are particularly suited to tourists and cycle-commuters.
These type of pedals are mostly used by mile-eating road cyclists.
The cleats use the standard 3-bolt triangular hole pattern and so can be fitted to any road cycling shoes (or triathlon shoes) from any manufacturer.
The cleats protrude from the shoe and this combined with a very rigid sole can make them difficult to walk in - not recommended for sight-seers or MTB.
As with all clipless pedal systems, a twist of foot foot releases the pedal.
Time do also make mountain bike pedals (Time ATAC etc...) These use the standard MTB 2 cleat screw hole pattern so can be used with any MTB shoe from any manufacturer.
Crank Brothers make pedals such as the Eggbeater and Candy and Mallett which, due to the open design of the pedal mechanism, are less likely to clog with mud when used off-road. Another feature of the design is that there is no need for tension adjustment - and there's tons of float...
Crank Brothers MTB pedals can be used with any MTB Cycling Shoes from any manufacturer.
The Crank Brothers cleat bolts into the standard 2-hole fitting (same hole pattern as SPD MTB) and also sits flush with the sole of your shoe so you can get around when off the bike.
Old fashioned clips and toe-straps
The cheap and cheerful alternative to the high tech solutions described above! Simple to set up and still widely used and ideal if you don't feel too sure about 'clipping in'. Keep the straps loose until you gain confidence. No cleat has to be fixed to your shoe, so you can ride in trainers.
Some consider them old fashioned but the most powerful riders in the world - track sprinters - still set records using toeclips and straps!
Setting Up Pedals & Cleats
Set clipless pedal systems up carefully...
Pedal 'tension' is usually adjusted using a small screw on the pedal body. + or - to increase or decrease tension.
Fore/Aft Positioning
Put your shoe on...
Find the ball of your foot - this defines the front/back position of your cleat. If neccessary, mark the sole of your shoe directly under the ball of your foot. Loosely fit the cleat so the bolt centers are in line with this mark. This will locate the ball of your foot directly above the pedal-axle. On road cleats you should see a line marked on the side of the cleat - align this with the ball of your foot. Cleat Alignment
If you are anatomically perfect, the cleats should point at the front of your shoe.
This method worked for me (Ed); Sit on a table, high enough to dangle your legs. Look down at your feet and imagine a front to back straight line running through them. This is the alignment your cleats should take. Fit 'em & tighten 'em real good. Go for a gentle ride and pay close attention to how you feel in the first 5-10 minutes of riding. Warm legs are more forgiving of the bad positioning that can cause sore knees. Stop and adjust if you have to. I carried the alan key in a pocket for the first few rides and gave them a little tweak at cafe stops until I was happy!
If you are really not sure get a shop to help set them up or you could get sore knees permanently.
