BottomBrackets Guide to Clipless Pedal Systems...

get on yer bike and ride...

CYCLING SHOES AND CLIPLESS PEDALS

WHY?
Attaching your feet to the pedals is something that beginners often feel uncomfortable with but as you gain experience you might want to consider it.
It takes a bit of getting used to but it makes long distance cycling and getting up hills much more efficient. It can also prevent you getting 'bounced' off the pedals when cycling over rough terrain.

If you are riding to work or just an occasional rider
then a normal platform pedal should do.

HOW Do Clipless Pedals Work??
A small object called a cleat is screwed to the sole of the shoe. The cleat is shaped to fit a sprung clip built into the pedal.
Stepping on the pedal locks the cleat to the pedal until you want to release.
To release, twist your foot until the spring releases and out it pops! Spring tension is adjustable on many pedals.
Clipless pedals are available with varying amounts of 'float' (usually measured in degrees). Float allows your shoe to move around without releasing your foot from the pedal. This allows your foot to move more naturally while pedalling.
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Pedals and Shoes
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There are a few main pedal types to choose from...

SPD (Shimano Pedalling Dynamics) compatible
Shimano SPD's are the most common fitting system. A cleat is fixed to the sole of the shoe. This "clicks" into the pedal. To release just twist your foot. SPD MTB cleats (also suitable for touring) sit flush with the sole of the shoe so do not hinder walking. The SPD road cleats protrude from the sole and can make walking difficult. SPD compatible shoes are available in trainer styles as well as hardcore MTB and road racer styles.

Look, Time compatible etc...
These type of shoes and pedals are mostly used by mile-eating road cyclists. The cleats protrude from the shoe and this combined with a very rigid sole can make them difficult to walk in - not recommended for sight-seers. Again a twist of the foot releases the mechanism. Time do also make a Mountain Bike pedal (Time ATAC) which is similar to (but not compatible with) the Shimano mountain bike SPD's

Crank Brothers
Crank Bros make pedals such as the 'Eggbeater' which, due to the open design of the pedal mechanism, are less likely to clog with mud when used off-road. The Crank Bros cleat also sits flush with the sole of your shoe.

Old fashioned clips and toe-straps
The cheap and cheerful alternative to the high tech solutions described above! Simple to set up and still widely used. Some consider them old fashioned but the most powerful riders in the world - track sprinters - still set records using toeclips and straps! They never release accidentally no matter how hard you pull and no cleat has to be fixed to your shoe.

SETTING UP PEDALS

Set clipless pedal systems up carefully...
Fore/Aft Positioning
Put your shoe on...
Find the ball of your foot - this defines the front/back position of your cleat. If neccessary, mark the sole of your shoe directly under the ball of your foot. Loosely fit the cleat so the bolt centers are in line with this mark. This will locate the ball of your foot directly above the pedal-axle. On road cleats you should see a line marked on the side of the cleat - align this with the ball of your foot.

Cleat Alignment
If you are anatomically perfect, the cleats should point at the front of your shoe.
This method worked for me (Ed);
Sit on a table, high enough to dangle your legs.
Look down at your feet and imagine a front to back straight line running through them. This is the alignment your cleats should take. Fit 'em.
Go for a gentle ride and pay close attention to how you feel in the first 5-10 minutes of riding. Warm legs are more forgiving of the bad positioning that can cause sore knees. Go home and adjust if you have to.
I carried the alan key in a pocket for the first few rides and gave them a little tweak at cafe stops until I was happy!
If you are really not sure get a shop to help set them up or you could get sore knees permanently.

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SPD (Shimano Pedalling Dynamics) compatible Shimano SPD's are the most common fitting system. A cleat is fixed to the sole of the shoe. This "clicks" into the pedal. To release just twist your foot. SPD MTB cleats (also suitable for touring) sit flush with the sole of the shoe so do not hinder walking. The SPD road cleats protrude from the sole and can make walking difficult. SPD compatible shoes are available in trainer styles as well as hardcore MTB and road racer styles.
Look, Time compatible etc... These type of shoes and pedals are mostly used by mile-eating road cyclists. The cleats protrude from the shoe and this combined with a very rigid sole can make them difficult to walk in - not recommended for sight-seers. Again a twist of the foot releases the mechanism. Time do also make a Mountain Bike pedal (Time ATAC) which is similar to (but not compatible with) the Shimano mountain bike SPD's
Crank Brothers Crank Bros make pedals such as the 'Eggbeater' which, due to the open design of the pedal mechanism, are less likely to clog with mud when used off-road. The Crank Bros cleat also sits flush with the sole of your shoe.
Old fashioned clips and toe-straps The cheap and cheerful alternative to the high tech solutions described above! Simple to set up and still widely used. Some consider them old fashioned but the most powerful riders in the world - track sprinters - still set records using toeclips and straps! They never release accidentally no matter how hard you pull and no cleat has to be fixed to your shoe.